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Á¶È¸ 121520´ñ±Û 0³¯Â¥ 2008-04-25 20:30:18
FET ¾çºÎ Å×½ºÆ®(¿µ¹®)
(¿î¿µÀÚ) IP: 222.120.95.38  Ãßõ: 1004    
Ãâó: http://blog.naver.com/lancer45/80048321014

¿Ü±¹Àεµ º¼°Í °°¾Æ¼­

½ºÅ©·¦ ¿ø¹®À» ±×´ë·Î Àû¾î ºÃ´Ù



¼ö¸®¸Ç °Ô½Ã¹° http://blog.naver.com/lancer45/80047546045

¿¡ ÀÖ´Â »çÁø ÀڷḦ ±Û·Î Ç¥Çö µÈ°ÍÀÌ´Ù



[µðÁöÅ» Å×½ºÆ®±â·Î fet test]



This testing procedure is for use with a digital multimeter in the diode test-range
with a minimum of 3.3 volt over d.u.t. (diode-under-test).
If your multi-meter is less than that it will not do the test.
Check your meter manual for the specs.



Connect the 'Source' of the MosFet to the meter's negative (-) lead.



1) Hold the MosFet by the case or the tab but don't touch the metal parts of the test probes
with any of the other MosFet's terminals until needed.
Do NOT allow a MOSFET to come in contact with your clothes, plastic or plastic products,
etc. because of the high static voltages it can generate.



2) First, touch the meter positive lead onto the MosFet's 'Gate'.



3) Now move the positve probe to the 'Drain'. You should get a 'low' reading.
The MosFet's internal capacitance on the gate has now been charged up by the meter
and the device is 'turned-on'.



4) With the meter positive still connected to the drain, touch a finger
between source and gate (and drain if you like, it does not matter at this stage).
The gate will be discharged through your finger and the meter reading should go high,
indicating a non-conductive device.



What the test above actually does is testing the cut-off voltage,
which is basically the highest voltage put on the gate without making it conduct.
Such a simple test is not 100% -- but is useful and usually adequate.



When MOSFETS fail they often go short-circuit drain-to-gate.
This can put the drain voltage back onto the gate where ofcourse it feeds
(via the gate resistors) into the drive circuitry, prossibly blowing that section.
It will also get to any other paralleled MosFet gates, blowing them also.
So, if the MosFets are deceased, check the drivers as well!
This fact is probably the best reason for adding a source-gate zener diode;
zeners fail short circuit and a properly connected zener can limit the damage in a failure!
You can also add subminiature gate resistors -- which tend to fail open-circuit (like a fuse)
under this overload, disconnecting the dud MosFet's gate.
Dying MOSFETS often emit flames or blow-out, even more so in hobby built electronics projects.
What that means is that a defective unit can usually be spotted visually.
They show a burned hole or 'something black' somewhere.
I have seen them alot especially in ups's which can have as many as 8 or more mosfets
in parallel. I always replace all of them if a couple are defective plus the drivers.



NEVER use one of those hand held solder-suckers (you know, the ones with a plunger)
to desolder a HEX MOSFET. They create enough Electro Static Discharge to destroy a mosfet.
Best method is using solder-wick or a professional 'ESD' safe desoldering station.




 
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